Day 14 Lake Garda

I just managed today persuade Sandra that we didn't have to go biking today so we had a chill out day taking the boat along the lake to Malcesine where Sandra drooled over all the shops selling Italian leather shoes and handbags. Fortunately  she was not prepared to carry extra baggage the rest of the way to Verona.  However I have been warned to pack my gear into as small a space as possible once we get to Verona.

On the way back to Torbole the wind had picked up, as it seems to do every afternoon here, and there were loads if dinghys and windsurfers flying around.

After a swim in the lake it was back in to Riva for dinner in preparation for a steep climb out of Torbole in the morning.

Today's miles- about 4

Total miles 478

Day 13 - Trento to Torbole, Lake Garda

A leisurely cycle today, for the first 19 miles we again followed the main cycle path along the Adige river as far as Rovereto. We then cut off west over a fairly low pass past Mori and over toTorbole at Lake Garda.

Today was a pretty short day again so we got booked into the campsite beside the lake, got our daily washing done and lazed about at the shore for the afternoon.

We then wandered into Riva del Gardo for dinner.  

We haven't really lost any time on this trip and still have a couple of spare days in hand so we plan to stay here for a couple of nights and will probably just have a potter about tomorrow.

Today's miles 30

Total miles 474

https://www.strava.com/activities/624433492

Day12 Lago di Caldaro to Trento

This morning we set off from the lakeside initially following quiet farm roads until we got to Aura.  After that we were on to the fantastic cycle path which follows the Adige River.

The cycle path has a great smooth surface, no cars and is used by all types of cyclists from tiny wee kids to pelotons of club racers.  It is also very well maintained, we came across this group trimming the verges. They even had a man with a hooter, just like you get with workers on British rail lines, who tooted whenever a cyclist was approaching (about every 30 seconds) and they all stopped their mowers and strimmers until the cyclists were past.

The cycle path even has trackside service stations purely for cyclists, eat your heart out Sustrans!

After a couple of coffee stops we arrived in the town of Trento at about one o'clock and decided that we would make that our destination for today.  It is a lovely old town with a really nice piazza around the cathedral

There are however no campsites nearby so we have decided that we will just make do with The Grand Hotel.

Cheers!!

Today's miles 35

Total miles 444

https://www.strava.com/activities/623372507

Day 11- Prato allo Stelvio to Lago di Caldaro

After yesterday's bonus loop it was time to get back on the road.  The first thirty miles followed the same route as we did three years ago following a great cycle path down alongside the Adige river through miles and miles of orchards to Merano.

We were delighted to see that the wee self service apple juice bar was still there.

When we got near Merano we took the quiet back roads above the the West Bank of the river and stopped for lunch at Marlengo. After about forty miles our route started to go up and down a bit and we started to flag slightly in the heat.  Tonight's camp site is not up to the excellent standards of the Sagemuhle where we have stayed for the last three nights, but it is on a beautiful location beside the lake.

We will probably try to have a shorter day tomorrow.

Today's miles 58

Total miles 409

https://www.strava.com/activities/621444851

Day 10 - The Stelvio Pass

When Sandra and I cycled through this area 3 years ago on our trip from Amsterdam to Venice we had hoped to take in a detour up the Stelvio Pass, but a combination of tired legs and lack of time meant that it never happened,  However the itch remained and that has been a significant factor in choosing our route for this year's trip.

So, after a day off yesterday, we were up bright and early this morning to give it a try, we were both quite nervous when we set off as we really had no idea how tough it might be.

Even before we had left the village we found ourselves in the middle of a huge cycle race with hundreds of cyclists heading up the pass.  By the time we reached the village of Trafoi most of the racers had passed us, however we did soon find ourselves amongst a gaggle of cyclists who were all generally going at a similar pace and encouraged each other as we passed and repassed one another repeatedly.

After Trafoi the hairpins started properly.  The gradient was quite steep the whole way, generally about 9% between bends, sometimes getting the up to 12 or 13%.

Again there were loads of motorbikes, supercars and occasional Old Timer going up the road.

After about 11 miles the view above opened out and we could see our final 5 miles and over 2000ft of climbing snaking ahead.

It looked quite intimidating but we knew that the gradient stayed much the same and, without our panniers and in cooler conditions, we were both feeling pretty comfortable just steadily climbing away, We certainly seemed far more comfortable than many of the road bikers who were going up at the same pace.

The last mile or so were really spectacular as we counted down the numbered hairpin bends from 48 down to zero and before long we were at the summit which was a great feeling of achievement.

Just after we got to the top the heavens opened so we took shelter for a well earned coffee, some food  and the obligatory souvenir cycling tops.

After a while it looked as though the weather was clearing so we set off on the descent back the way we had come.

However this turned out just to be a "suckers gap" and within minutes we were caught in a torrential hail shower and it was absolutely freezing. ( we were at nearly 9000ft).

 

Fortunately there was another restaurant about 4 or 5 miles down where we joined quite a few other cyclists who had taken refuge for a coffee and to thaw out.  After a while the weather improved again and we continued the rest of our descent, it was really only on the way down that we appreciated just what a huge climb we had undertaken.

Eventually we were back down in the valley having a well earned beer an feeling quite chuffed with ourselves, although it was tough we were both really pleased with how comfortable we felt on the climb.  It was a fantastic day.

Today's miles - 34

Total miles - 351

https://www.strava.com/activities/621444851

Day 9 - A day off.

No biking today, instead we had a relaxing day, swimming, reading, nice lunch at the pizzeria next door, sheltering from this afternoon's thunderstorm,....then we gate crashed the 4th annual Stilfserjoch Old Timer Traktor Tour http://stilfserjoch2016.blogspot.it/p/blog-page_41.html

And here's one of the old timers!

There were also Porsches

Lambourghinis

And a big man on a wee scooter with a beer trailer

It was a fairly surreal event with hundreds of Tyrolean farmers gathered in a sort of Wild West Coral, however the beer and food was great with a surprisingly good Tyrolean folk band playing. Another great day.

http://www.tirolerwind.com/

Day 8 - Zernez to Pratto allies Stelvio, via the Ofen pass

Today started off badly with the news that middle England had voted us out of the EU.  It then got considerably worse when Sandra reminded me over breakfasst that I hadn't wished her happy Birthday yet!  Fortunately presents and cards had been sorted out before we left.

Anyway, apart from those minor setbacks we had a great day today.  The initial climb out of Zernez was again pretty steep, about 9%, and hot, but the gradient eased off in places to give a bit of respite  and the climb was actually in two parts with a great wee downhill in the middle.

The road was fairly busy but felt relatively safe,  there were dozens of motorbikes and loads of sports cars including various Ferraris, an E Type, Maseratis and a Bugatti Vaeron, we didn't see any other bike tourists though!

After the junction with the tunnel which cut off to Livigno our route climbed fairly gently for a while and after a stop for some cake and cokes it was onwards to the final steep climb to the summit.

With fantastic views over the other side to Italy.

After an excellent 20 mile descent we have arrived at Pratto allo Stelvio where since it is Sandra's birthday I decided to lash out on luxury four star accommodation 

It's still a camp site of course, but a very nice one!

We are also pleased to note that prices for food and wine have significantly dropped since coming over the border from Switzerland. Cheers!!

We reckon we might have a day off tomorrow.

Today's miles- 37

Total miles- 317

https://www.strava.com/activities/619262464

Day 7 Filispur to Zernez

As predicted my plea for a day off was totally ignored and we set off this morning for the Albula pass, however, by the time got to Bergun 6 miles and 1500ft later Sandra's legs had packed in!  The sensible decision was therefore made to get the train over the pass rather than climb another 3000ft.

You can just see our road in the background heading through the gorge.

Bergun

We got off the train at Samedin as Google was telling us it was 18 miles all downhill to our planned  campsite at Zernez.  Unfortunately the marked cycle route had a different route in mind than google and we ended up climbing another 1500ft in the afternoon as the gravel road wound up and down through the forest and occasional field of cows.

We eventually got to our campsite just after four o'clock, so it is just as well we got the train.  There are fantastic views from the campsite and the restaurant has been great.  I don't think it will be a late night as we have the Fuorn pass to tackle tomorrow.

Today's miles 27 ((we're rounding up!)

Total miles 280

https://www.strava.com/activities/618093290

https://www.strava.com/activities/618304489

Day 6 - Bad Ragaz to Filispur

It was a game of two halves today.  The weather was sunny and hot all day, this morning's 18 mile run to Chur was fairly flat, again following the course of the Rhine.

Then after Chur we started to go up, big style!  The next ten miles were almost relentlessly steep with gradients of between 9 to 11%,  which is bloody steep with panniers on in temperatures above 30 degrees.  I think Sandra had better give her thoughts on the climb. "You would,think that 2.5 miles left to go to the top would be easy but straight up for another 1000ft, with panniers and searing heat it was the toughest biking I've ever done".

When we eventually got over the top at Valbella it was a fantastic 12 mile descent in a warm breeze with spectacular scenery all around.

After that it was just a couple of weary miles to tonight's campsite at Filispur where I have spent the last couple of hours trying to persuade Sandra that tomorrow should be a rest day rather than try to head off over the Albula pass. This seems to be falling on deaf ears, mainly because there is apparently not enough shopping in Filispur to justify a day off!!

We will see what tomorrow brings

Today's miles - 40 with 4800ft of climbing

Total miles 253

https://www.strava.com/activities/617243742

Day 5- Thal to Bad Ragaz

A multinational day today passing through Switzerland, Austria and most of Lichtenstein.  That makes five countries so far as we have already visited France and Germany on this trip.

We had no mechanical problems today but it looks as though news of how lucrative we are to the Swiss bike trade seems to have spread ahead of us as bike shop owners are now approaching us touting for Business. As we were sitting having a snack outside the Coop at Diepoidsa,  Gabrielle came across for a chat and to find out where we'd were heading for. She then told us that her husband ran a bike shop just along the road and asked if there was anything we were needing. Unusually we were fine today, however we did get a Photo to add to our collection of Swiss bike shop owners.

Despite the mountains closing in all around us throughout today's journey, this has been the flattest day so far since we have generally followed the flood banks of the Rhine.  That should change tomorrow!!

Today's miles - 51

Total miles- 213 (and Sandra's legs are feeling it!)

Day 4 Mammern to Thal

Great weather today, sunshine all the way and temperatures about 25 degrees.

We started off the morning by doubling back a few miles to a bike shop we had seen yesterday where Anton sorted us out with a new tyre and almost a full service of Sandra's bike.

After that it was a fairly straightforward run along the side of Lake Konstanz (or Bodensee).  The cycle paths were great twisting and turning through old towns and crisscrossing the railway line.  We must have negotiated hundreds of Junctions but they were all really well signposted and we hardly needed to look at the map.

Although the sun was out, there was plenty of evidence of he recent rain as the lake, (which is huge), was flooding into towns at various points along our route.  At Berlingen the car park was well under water, many of the buildings had built block work flood defences and a raised walkway had been built out to the pier.

At a few other places the cycle path was flooded but fortunately not too deep.  We have no idea who the two in the photo below are, we just thought we had better watch in case they fell in.

Today's miles- 49 (41 of them in the right direction!)

Total miles- 162

https://www.strava.com/activities/615076313